The handloom industry in India is one of the best illustrations of India’s rich cultural legacy and textile industry. This includes the Banarasi sarees of Uttar Pradesh, Kanjeevaram silk of Tamil Nadu and the various Pochampally Ikat as well as the famous double-ikat Patola of Gujarat.

A Geographical Indication (GI) tag is a form of intellectual property that associates the name, reputation and qualities of the product with its geographical location. In case of handlooms sarees, GI tagging could be helpful for the preservation of the technique and support of the communities involved in it as well as consumers against frauds.

What is a GI Tag?

Geographical Indication (GI) tag is the intellectual property tag assigned to a product that has originated in a particular geographical area. The product is supposed to have some distinct quality or reputation because of its origination in that particular place.

In India, the protection of Geographical Indications is provided under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

For the traditional textile products, the GI protection may be obtained on the basis of,

• Traditional techniques of weaving
• Design and motifs specific to the region
• Materials and fibers used in production
• Dyeing and production process
• Reputation of the region related to the product

Thus, GI helps to separate the authentic products from those that only look like them.

Why is GI Tag Necessary for Handloom Sarees?

Handloom traditions in India have evolved over hundreds of years and are intimately linked to their community of origin.

GI tagging could serve various purposes,

• Protection of identity: It ensures that the name of the product is protected and maintains its reputation.
• Benefits artisans: It builds up the market identity of products produced by the traditional weaving community.
• Benefits buyers: Buyers can use the GI tag as one of the measures while identifying products from the region.
• Protection from infringement: Any infringement in the use of the geographical name of the product can be challenged legally.
• Cultural preservation: It ensures the perpetuation of traditional weaving skills.

Some Best Known GI Tagged Handloom Sarees of India

There are several GI tagged textile traditions in India. Some of the well-known sarees and textiles include the following.

1. Banarasi Saree – Uttar Pradesh

Banarasi saree originates from Varanasi and neighboring weaving districts of Uttar Pradesh. This saree is famous for its designs, silk fabric and zari work.

Traditionally, Banarasi sarees include designs inspired by the art traditions of India including floral patterns and Mughal designs.

Due to intricate weaving and ornamentation, Banarsi silk has become one of the most recognizable traditional fabrics in India.

2. Kanjeevaram Silk Saree – Tamil Nadu

The Kanjeevaram or Kanjivaram silk sarees are originated from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu.

These sarees are well known for their rich silk fabric, border, zari work and traditional motifs. The designs may also include temple designs, floral designs and other regional motifs.

The weaving traditions are an integral part of cultural heritage of Kanchipuram.

3. Chanderi Saree – Madhya Pradesh

The Chanderi sarees come from Chanderi district of Madhya Pradesh.

This saree is famous for its light weight and translucent quality. Traditionally, the Chanderi textiles can be produced using silk, cotton or combination of both.

4. Pochampally Ikat – Telangana

The Pochampally Ikat is one of the most famous resist dyeing and weaving traditions in India.

The tradition is associated with Pochampally and neighboring districts of Telangana region. The fabric is recognized for its characteristic geometric pattern, which was produced using the Ikat method.

Ikat is the method in which yarns are treated with resist dyes before weaving. The design appears after the weaving process.

5. Sambalpuri Saree – Odisha

The Sambalpuri saree represents traditional Ikat weaving tradition of Odisha.

The Sambalpuri textiles are well known for their characteristic Bandha tie and dye and traditional motifs. The designs can represent various symbols and patterns inspired by nature and culture of the region.

Common motifs are fish, elephant, conch shell, etc are included in it.

6. Paithani Saree – Maharashtra

The Paithani saree is woven in Paithan in Maharashtra and distinguished by its silk fabric and zari embroidery.

Peacock and lotus are among the traditional designs of the Paithani saree. Borders and richly embroidered pallu distinguish the saree.

Today Paithani is one of the important representatives of the traditional textiles of Maharashtra.

7. Patola Saree – Gujarat

Patola saree from Patan in Gujarat is one of the most skillful handloom traditions in India.

Double-Ikat Patola is characterized by its complex preplanning process because both warp and weft yarns are resist dyed and then the threads must be accurately aligned in order to create patterns.

Patan Patola is especially prized for its complex production process and specific skills involved.

8. Mysore Silk – Karnataka

Mysore silk is associated with the Karnataka tradition of weaving silk sarees and distinguishes itself by its smooth texture, pure silk fabric and zari embroidery.

This textile is one of the important parts of the silk heritage of Karnataka.

9. Ilkal Saree – Karnataka

Ilkal saree originates in Ilkal in Karnataka.

One of the characteristics of the traditional Ilkal saree is the combination of cotton body and silk pallu. Borders and traditional weaving technique are among the distinguishing features of the textile.

10. Kota Doria – Rajasthan

Kota Doria is one of the fabrics originating in Kota in Rajasthan.

This textile is distinguished by its lightweight quality and square check pattern created by its traditional weaving technique.

Its airy quality makes this fabric especially popular in warm climate regions.

11. Bengal Handloom Sarees – West Bengal

The handloom tradition in West Bengal is rather diverse; among the representatives of this tradition are Bengal cotton and Tant sarees.

Tant sarees are traditionally distinguished by their lightness, breathability and borders.

GI Tag vs Handloom: Are They Identical?

No, both concepts are not identical.

A GI marks and safeguards the geographical location as well as features related to the product. The other concept of certification and labeling in relation to handloom focuses on certain production and marketing aspects of textiles.

It is thus clear that consumers cannot presume that all products bearing a geographical name are handloomed or that all handloomed sarees have a GI tag.

The Swadeshi Movement is considered as one of the significant phases of India’s struggle for independence. This movement was formed in the early twentieth century as a reaction to the Partition of Bengal in 1905. It was the result of agitation against the partition which gradually took the form of a nation-wide movement based on boycott, Swadeshi, national education and self-reliance.

This movement marked a significant turning point in Indian nationalism as far as methods used for political activism and propaganda are concerned. It also promoted indigenous industries, education and entrepreneurship among others.

Background: Partition of Bengal

The origin of the Swadeshi Movement can be dated back to the partition of Bengal by the British Government led by Lord Curzon. While explaining the reason behind this decision, British Government claimed that Bengal was too big for proper administration. However, Indian nationalists considered the main reason as the weakening of the growing nationalist movement and division of Bengali speaking population.

On 20 July 1905, it was declared that a new province of Eastern Bengal and Assam would be formed. The partition took place on 16 October 1905.

The partition became a source of huge controversy as people in Bengal protested against this decision through public meetings, petitions, newspaper campaigns and demonstrations.

Boycott & Swadeshi Movement: Beginning

Since the constitutional protest did not convince the British Government about its demands, the nationalists decided to adopt a new approach which included the boycott of the British goods.

Boycott had been suggested by Krishnakumar Mitra in his newspaper Sanjivani on 3 July 1905. This idea got widespread approval when there was a public meeting organized at Calcutta Town Hall on 7 August 1905.

Swadeshi movement motivated Indians to boycott British products and buy Indian products instead. Thus, swadeshi became not only an economic program but also a political movement.

People mourned, observed processions and celebrated Raksha Bandhan on the day of the implementation of the partition i.e., 16 October 1905.

Key Features of the Swadeshi Movement

The movement was built on various interlinked schemes.

Boycotting of Foreign Goods

The boycott of British goods was one of the most important features. Individuals were expected to refrain from using foreign goods, especially textiles, and use Indian-made goods instead.

Promotion of Swadeshi Industries

Nationalists supported indigenous industries and Indian entrepreneurship. Factories dealing in textiles, chemicals, soap, matches, and other products received prominence.

National Education

The Swadeshi movement even opposed the colonial system of education. The Carlyle Circular issued in October 1905 warned about the possible revocation of grants, scholarships, and affiliations for those students who indulged in any anti-government activities.

It motivated the nationalists to build their own institutions, such as Bengal National College & School and Bengal Technical Institution.

Leaders Who Played Prominent Roles in the Swadeshi Movement

These were,

• Bal Gangadhar Tilak
• Bipin Chandra Pal
• Lala Lajpat Rai
• Aurobindo Ghosh
• Surendranath Banerjee
• Rabindranath Tagore
• V. O. Chidambaram Pillai

In addition, the Swadeshi Movement gave a chance for the rise of extremist nationalism within the Indian National Congress.

Moderates & Extremists

There were divergent views among the moderates and extremists in the Swadeshi Movement.

While the Moderates, like Surendranath Banerjee and Krishnakumar Mitra, depended on petitions, public meeting and constitutional ways in their initial days, they advocated something that later came to be known as ‘constructive Swadeshi’, involving indigenous industries, education and social development.

On the other hand, the Extremists, like Bipin Chandra Pal and Aurobindo Ghosh, had an aggressive programme based on Swaraj, boycott and passive resistance.

Thus, the Swadeshi Movement became instrumental in the change of Indian nationalist politics.

Role of Samitis

Several volunteer groups called Samitis were formed during the movement. Some important ones included Dawn Society, Anti-Circular Society, Swadesh Bandhav Samiti, Anushilan Samiti and Suhrid Samiti.

They advocated Swadeshi and boycott, undertook physical and moral training, did social work during times of famines and epidemics and worked for spreading nationalism amongst common people.

Role of Women, Students and Common People

The Swadeshi Movement made political movements extend beyond political leadership.

Students indulged in picketing and demonstrations, while women participated in boycott and advocated Swadeshi items. Craftsmen, farmers and certain sections of the middle class too became involved in this movement.

The movement thus helped nationalism become a mass phenomenon going beyond political elites.

Spread Beyond Bengal

Though Swadeshi Movement was centred in Bengal, its influence was felt throughout India.

Swadeshi and boycott campaign was organised in Bombay, Madras and North India. Bal Gangadhar Tilak played an important role in making the movement spread beyond Bengal.

In certain parts of present day Andhra, the movement came to be associated with Vande Mataram Movement.

Economic Impacts

One of the key impacts of the movement was the promotion of Indian industries.

Swadeshi Movement rejuvenated,

• Local textiles
• Cottage industries
• Handicrafts
• Chemical and soap industry
• Matches
• Indian entrepreneurship

The movement made the Indians aware of the economic impacts of colonial rule and promoted domestic manufacturing among them.

Cultural and Nationalist Impacts

The Swadeshi Movement also had a significant cultural impact. Literature, songs, press and nationalistic writings were some of the most prominent tools used for the spread of nationalism during that era.

Literary figures like Rabindranath Tagore played a role in the cultural mobilisation of the time.

The Swadeshi Movement was one of the movements through which nationalism evolved into a general sentiment and popular notions of Swadeshi, Swaraj, self-reliance and passive resistance were spread.